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"It doesn't even feel like I am wearing a pack!"
Wrap hard or sharp objects in clothing before packing.
Don’t haul the pack over rocks or sharp objects.
Put your pack in a Pack Protector bag for airline travel.
Clean mud off your pack with soap and water at the end of your trip. Hand washing with a soft bristle scrubbing brush is best. Hang your pack in a cool area to dry.
Store the pack in a cool dry environment.
On long trips and expeditions it is good to take some duct tape or similar, plus a needle, thimble and strong nylon thread to handle any emergencies. Also handy for fabric rips is a length Tear-aid, Tenacious tape or Gorilla tape which give neat long term repairs of rips and holes.
We recommend clean rips be repaired by yourself in these situations, as they are not covered by our guarantee and this avoids shipping charges and repair costs.
One of the keys to zip longevity is to keep them free of sand and grit.
Clean zips by washing with a garden hose with a pressure nozzle. It is also important not to overload pockets putting unnecessary stress on the zips when closing, as this could also result in failure.
Most zip failures result from wear to the coating on the inside of the zip slider. Once this coating wears off, the metal abrades quickly, and the slider no longer joins the continuous plastic coils securely. The plastic coils then tend to separate behind the zipper slider.
To revive lost water repellency on our water resistant packs, we suggest that you contact your local specialty outdoor shop. There are a number of different water repellency rejuvenation products on the market. Your retailer will be able to guide you to the one that would work best for your water resistant pack. We recommend Nikwax products.
Any loose threads or fraying web ends should be melted with a lighter to prevent further unravelling.
We do have some spare parts for new and old products available.
Packs: Buckles, nylon and elastic webbing, zip sliders, lids, hip belts, sternum straps, shoulder straps etc.
Pacer-poles: Rubber tips, snow baskets, and various plastic pieces.
To obtain any of these items or to inquire about items not listed here, please contact us.
Any issues with holes in stretch mesh outside pockets or thick mono mesh back panels need to be hand-stitched as they cannot be repaired by machine. Since these failures are generally due to wear and tear, we suggest that the customer does the repair themselves.
Back mesh: You can hand stitch with thicker button hole thread, nylon or polyester.
Shoulder strap: You can hand stitch with thicker button hole thread, nylon or polyester.
Hipbelt holster: Stitch with a sewing machine (probably need a boot maker with an industrial machine) or hand stitch with heavy thread, again nylon or polyester.
Our lightweight packs are now made in Vietnam in a professional pack factory with good working conditions. We visit our factories regularly. You can be sure that your pack is not made in a sweatshop!
Achieving lightweight durability is an ongoing focus at Aarn Packs. Over generations of designs we have eliminated weak areas.
Here’s how we optimise lightweight durability in our packs:
The most common place on packs for breakage is where the shoulder strap webs are sewn to the pack. Our lower shoulder strap webs form a continuous sling under the bottom of the pack to disperse the load.
Gussets are used to distribute stress over a large area.
Double stitched and bound main seams to prevent seam splits and internal wear.
Hyperlon fabric or heavier fabrics at frame ends and wear points.
Double or triple bottoms.
Bar-tacking web insertion and other high-stress points.
Nylon webbing.
Woojin®, Duraflex®, YKK® and Duraflex ® buckles. 3D Mono mesh.
500, 210 and 100 D Kodura, Robic and ripstop nylon fabrics respectively.
Top Korean made fabrics. PU, Silicon and HTS coatings.
YKK ® zips.
7075 T6 alloy rod frames.
6001 T6 hollow alloy stays.